Happy hours, brunches, new openings and the month ahead — written for people who live here.

Peter Cat, the modern Asian arrivals and the Bengali kitchens — an honest ranking of a street that trades on nostalgia.

Puchka, kathi roll, telebhaja, ghugni, jhalmuri and the chop — a working order for one afternoon.

The order of a Bengali meal, the fish you should ask for, and why the mustard matters.

Pandal-hopping without losing your mind — timing, routes and what the days mean.

A century-old room, indifferent coffee, and the conversation that is the actual product.

Rosogolla, sandesh, mishti doi and the seasonal ones worth planning around.

Victoria Memorial, the Maidan, Howrah Bridge and a ferry across — one day, mostly on foot.

South Kolkata's cafés, the Sector V corridor and the themed rooms — a map of the current wave.

The Sundarbans at three hours, Digha at four, Darjeeling if you have three days rather than two.

New Market for everything, Gariahat for saris, Mullick Ghat for flowers at dawn.